The Above Ground Pool Builder has been installing above ground pool liners for a quarter of a century. We have learned throughout the years that following a system is the best way to replace above ground pool liners. We like sharing tips that can help a homeowner do this on his/her own. If you are a little handy than you can replace your own liner. However, if you are the person that says absolutely not for me! We understand and this guide can serve as a tool to help you as well. This guide will provide you with information to help guide your purchase and prevent a loss of money. We promise there is useful information for anyone looking to replace an above ground pool liner successfully.
If you have any questions at any point please visit www.abovegroundpoolbuilder.com or visit us on our YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6AFPIXFIHYZItD0fmgDN9Q. Both places contain immense amounts of information pertaining to A.G. Pools and Liners. If telephone is more your style, our number is (781) 927-9110 or email us at email@example.com. We can also set up a Skype conversation for those comfortable in doing so.
Let’s start with the weather; needless to say no pool liner should be replaced in cold weather. It just doesn’t make sense to be out there in cold weather replacing a pool liner. Rule number one don’t do it under 60 degrees! The liner will not be able to stretch the way it needs to do.
If the temperature is above 60 degrees than it is perfectly fine to replace the liner. Temperatures above 90 degrees will be difficult because liner will want to expand more than necessary. It becomes big and is hard to size the liner properly. We will get to sizing in a little while, but for now just remember to be very careful with higher temps.
In colder climates like New England there is a limited time frame for replacing a pool liner. As an above ground pool contractor, we at Above Ground Pool Builder, on average start to replace liners in April and continue to replace liners into October. In warmer climates, like Florida, you can replace year round.
When purchasing a liner, please be aware of the warranty. Warranties can seem too good to be true, they often carry many stipulations in order to replace a liner defect. Manufacturers have a rule that says “We will warranty only seam failures and nothing else”. The fact is, most manufactures don’t cover liner leaks of any kind unless they are on a seam. So if someone was shipped a liner with a hole in it, the manufacturer would not cover the liner. This would fall directly on distribution network and retail establishment whether local or online.
Some warranties attach stipulations like “Armor guard floor padding needs to be installed with liner in order to extend main parts of warranty”. The biggest thing is to remember that most warranties aren’t worth the paper they are written on unless it is a seam fail. When on a seam they are very good about replacing a liner with a new one and allowing installation coverage. The seam manufacturing processes are getting so good these days that seam failures are rare and almost a thing of the past. So moving forward this kind of fail will be less of an issue than it once was.
Now that you have some basic information about weather and warranties, it is time to dive into the project! Step 1 Measuring
First step will be to measure your pool for a replacement liner. Please refer to the following chart of standard pool sizes and wall heights for comparison.
|Common Round Sizes||Pool Wall heights||Common Oval Sizes|
|12’ round||48”||12’x17’ oval|
|15’ round||52”||12’x23’ oval|
|18’ round||54”||12’x24’ oval|
|20’ round||15’x20’ oval|
|21’ round||15’x24’ oval|
|24’ round||15’x25’ oval|
|27’ round||15’x26’ oval|
|28’ round||15’x30’ oval|
|30’ round||18’x33’ oval|
|33’ round||18’x40’ oval|
If you have a round pool, you will need to know the diameter and wall height. Oval and rectangle pools will require measurements for the length and width. You will also need to know information about the bottom of your pool. A standard floor has a covering (floor base where it meets the wall) that is about 4 inches in height up the wall and 3 inches inward from the wall. Overlap lined pools tend to have larger coves and most overlap lined pools are built to fit universal overlap liners ranging from 48″-54″ in height.
You want to measure the wall height from the base (the bottom track) to the top of the wall underneath the top rail. Please do not measure from inside the pool, always measure from the outside. Measuring the inside will give you the wrong measurement. Move any debris in your way so a proper measure can be taken. Measure upward to underneath your pool’s top rail. This is your wall height. About 90% of the time you will get a measurement that is underneath the common wall height in chart.
You measure 51.5” or 51” wall height. This means your pool wall is 52”.
Next you will need the diameter, if your pool is round. Using the examples below, you will be able to determine the diameter of your round pool. You will want to measure on the inside for all diameter, length and width measurements. Take a tape measure and measure using the following rules.
In this example, let’s say your pool has an even number of uprights as in this we see 14 uprights. Since it is an even number you simply split that in half which is 7.
So you mark the #1 upright and count 7 uprights over being careful not to count the first upright.
Use a tape measure to determine the distance between the #1 upright and the #7 upright; this is your diameter of the pool. *Remembering to measure inside the pool wall from one side to the other.
In this example the pool has an odd number of uprights and let’s says 15 uprights. To get the halfway point you’ll need to first find the highest even number of uprights your pool has. In this example that number is 14.
Simply count 7 uprights in either direction and be sure not to count the #1 upright when counting to the #7 upright.
Use a tape measure to measure from the #1 upright to half way between the #7 upright and next upright which is the #8 upright. This is your pools diameter. *Remembering to measure inside the pool wall one side to the other.
To measure an oval pools length, width and wall height follow the directions below and compare your measurements to the common chart of standard sizes above.
Notice in the pictures that sometimes your length measurement is from upright to upright and sometimes it is between two uprights.
Take your measurements from the inside of the pool wall near the top of the pool. Use a tape measure and measure from straight side to the other straight side (this is the width measurement) on the inside of the wall. Next
use a tape measure from one curved end to the other curved end (this is the length dimension of your pool) in the center of the pool. Place the two dimensions together; this is your oval pools length by width measurements.
Please note on oval pools: All manufacturers build their walls with different lengths and have different upright locations. You might very well find for example that a 15’x30’ pool will measure 15’2”x30’2” or something a little different and this is OK.
So to recap a round above ground pool’s measurements you need the wall height and diameter. For an oval or rectangle pool you will need the wall height, length and width.
Part of the process of changing your pool liner will involve inspecting your pool and you can do this process while taking measurements.
After all what good is buying the best fitting pool liner if the pool it’s going into has a major problem? Even the best looking pools can have major problems lurking just past the naked eye. Take a pool like this one here. Looks great right? Sometimes pools like this one can have major problems. Pools covered all around with decks and earth material can hold moisture close to a pool wall. This can cause damage to the bottom of the pool over time.
Also, if you have vegetation growing close to the pool wall you can end up with rust and perhaps rotting issues
You always want to check the wall in several places no matter what is growing around the pool. Also check under your deck for any issues. Dig down if you need to. You never know what you might find.
Check the bottom of the uprights to see if they are still attached with manufactured screws to the uprights. A little tug upward will give you the answer. If it breaks free then you have a problem. Sometimes the screws can rust and break. You do not need to check every single one. Check about 3 or 4 screws, if they are good then chances are the rest will be too.
Remove some resin, plastic and/or metal top caps depending on which kind of pool you may have. Inspect the screws that hold down the top rails. Most screws are stainless and will look OK, but every now and then we come across rusted out screws that are a nightmare to get out. It is completely normal to have a few that are stuck in place. This is to be expected but if all of them are a problem then this could be a concern.
The pool that has almost all the screws rusted into place will prove to be a pool that would be better off being replaced. If replacing the pool yourself, spray some WD-40 on all the screws holding top rails on the day before you plan to take down the pool. You will also want to spray the screws underneath the top ledges. These screws hold down the top plates. The top plates hold down the metal or resin rails which holds the liner or bead track in place. All screws can and should be sprayed with WD-40.
Next, check the bottom of the pool wall. Look for rust coming through the wall. Any pool which shows rust coming through the wall will only be worse when liner is removed. This pool should be replaced.
Rust on a steel wall is serious and needs your attention. You may need to cut away liner to look behind the wall. Obviously this cannot take place when pool is full of water, but it has to be done. Aluminum pool walls may have pitting and show tiny holes everywhere. This can be OK so long as you place wall foam inside the wall before liner is installed to protect against pitted area hurting the new liner.
Bead track should be checked for worn edges. A bead track receiver is about 4 feet long and fits atop the pools wall so that the bead of the liner can snap into it. A pool has many of these all around the top edge of the pool wall. Check the part the loops upward. This is the part that the liner snaps into. See if it is leaning downward allowing a wide space compared to the rest of the track. If you see areas where track is starting to give and shows wear? You want to replace these areas with new bead track pieces. We recommend replacing the whole track if it is 5 or more years old, or if 50% (or more) of your receivers are worn out.
Skimmer and return areas:
Please pay special attention to the skimmer and return area of your pool. Above Ground Pool Builder knows that most pools have leaking issues in these areas. So many pools have been lost due to leaky skimmers and returns. When inspecting this area use a small screw driver, one with a #1 tip or even an ole, or another pointing metal hand held tool. To check this area poke the wall and see if any loose material can be observed or if the area is weak. When a skimmer or return leaks over time it will leave stains running down the side walls. If you are able to poke through easily then the wall is compromised. Many times it will be just staining which is okay.
Pay special attention and inspect around the openings of the skimmer and return carefully. Look for worn down metal where the wall may be compromised. If the area shows signs of being compromised then attention will need to be made during a liner replacement. If the area shows obvious signs of damage it will need to be addressed. You may always show us pictures so we can assure you if skimmer area will be okay or not. firstname.lastname@example.org.
The main idea here is to make sure the area is sufficiently supportive and will allow a liner replacement to take place. It is always a great idea to replace the skimmer and return with any liner replacement.
Step 3 and 4:
We have combined steps three and four (Research and Selection) with articles “Three Important Features of Above Ground Pool Liners and 6 of the Common Above Ground Pool Liner Attachments”
Three Important features of above ground pool liners
Before you purchase an above ground replacement pool liner there are three important features you should understand.
- Material Thickness
In this article you will learn three important features regarding above ground pool liners. These features will help you decipher a good liner from a bad one.
Today many online pool stores are using deceptive information to persuade the public to purchase their pool liners.
At the Above Ground Pool Builder we feel it is important to discuss these three features in order to prevent you from having problems with your above ground pool. We have over 25 years of pool installation experience and our instinct says “buyers beware!”
Let’s get started…
The terms: overlap, regular bead, uni-bead, J-hook, V-bead, EZ-bead liners etc. are telling you that the liner has a feature which attaches the liner to the pool. Most people are under the assumption that if you have a particular liner attachment then you need the same kind of attachment liner when replacing. This cannot be further from the truth! You can easily convert from one attachment to another.
Most conversions do not require any other purchase; however there is one exception: when converting a liner to a regular bead liner, you will need a bead track. All other attachments do not require anything else and your conversion from overlap to uni-bead, J-hook, V-bead, EZ-bead liners etc. is easy to do. Also converting from regular bead, uni-bead, J-hook, V-bead, EZ-bead liners to an overlap liner is perfectly fine as well.
This chart shows a few different attachments to explain what is possible.
6 Common Above Ground Pool Liner Attachments
The most common above ground pool liners attachments are:
- Regular Bead (standard)
- Johnny Weissmuller and Esther Williams bead
#1 Overlap liner The overlap liner is seen from the outside of an above ground swimming pool. It hangs over the sidewall. Overlap liners can also be built with expandable vinyl material for deeper style bottom pools. There are fewer patterns available with overlap liners. Typically a pattern on a pool liner is at water level. Overlap liners are stretched over the top of the wall when being installed. Since they have extra material, overlap liners tend to have larger repetitive patterns that go down below the water line so you do not notice any variations.
#2 Regular Beaded Liner (standard)
Beaded liners have a bead built into the top of the liner that serves as the attachment. The bead goes into a bead receiver. Bead receivers are first installed at the top of a pool wall during installation and then the bead (standard) snaps into this bead receiver.
#3 J-hook liner
These liners have a bead that is shaped like a hook. The hook is installed to the top of the pool wall directly without the need for a bead receiver. These j-hook liners are being phased out by manufacturing in favor of uni-bead and ez-bead liners.
Special note about J-hook liners:
“Often time’s people try to take a j-hook liner and install it into a bead receiver. Sometimes it works, but the liner usually falls out after filling. It is important to remember to first remove the bead receivers (if your pool has them) then use the j-hook and attach to the pool wall.”
#4 Uni-Bead liner
This liner is produced with a universal bead (known as uni-bead) that works as a j-hook liner or a regular bead (standard). For J-hook installation the hook is attached to the top of the pool wall directly without a bead receiver. Uni-bead installs like a regular bead (standard) liner which requires you to cut off the j-hook part of the liner first then install the bead into a bead receiver. This is much easier than it sounds. The part that is cut is perforated so you only need to cut a half inch. The rest peels off by pulling the j-hook part away from the bead.
#5 EZ_bead liner
EZ-bead is also referred to as “Multi-Bead Liners.” This liner is an improvement of the uni-bead liner. It is also constructed universally and installs as a j-hook and regular bead liner (standard). The only difference is this universal liner is made so no cutting is necessary. One can attach it as a j-hook by placing the hook part at the top of the pool wall. The regular bead (standard) simply folds onto itself and snaps into a bead receiver.
#6 Johnny Weissmuller and Esther Williams liner
These liners have a thicker bead attachment and are made specifically for these two older aluminum style pools. These pools were popular in the 80’s, 90’s and early 2000’s. These pools were produced with a bead track made of aluminum metal that also had a structural purpose. The aluminum metal bead track holds the liner and the top of the pool wall in place. The bead track is also painted to a smooth finish. This smooth finish allows a regular bead liner to slip during installation.
“Special note here: At the Above Ground Pool Builder we have installed thousands regular beaded, uni-beaded and ez-beaded liners into JW and EW metal bead receivers and about 80% it goes just fine to do so. When we have situations where it may be slipping during the installation stage we install a liner lock material which holds the liner into the metal track. Liner lock is a long wedge material specifically designed for this purpose. So when it comes to JW and EW pool liner we say one can use regular bead (standard) liners with liner lock as a backup solution. “
The most asked question at the Above Ground Pool Builder is “What pattern makes the best pool liner?” First, it is important to know that the pattern does not have any association with the quality or thickness of the liner. When choosing a liner it is a personal choice that you and your family will need to make. You will be looking at this new liner for the approximately ten years (give or take), so choose a design that is appealing to you.
One last thing to consider, beaded style pool liners have more choices in patterns. Beaded liners are more popular therefore you have more pattern styles available.
- Material and Thickness
There are all kinds of misleading information when it comes to thickness of above ground pool liners. Manufacturers set the rules and the distribution companies do a great job of confusing the customers.
Manufacturers allow distribution companies and online stores to market and advertise material and thickness however they wish. They are allowed to create their own terminology to describe the thickness. Some companies use the terms mils, while others use the term gauge. A few years ago pool liners were sold with two thickness choices, 20 and 25 mil. This represented 20 and 25 of thousandths of an inch. Today, everyone is selling above ground pool liners and some are even creating their own terminology such as “super duty 30”. This industry is lacking a clear description of thickness.
We have created a chart that compares gauge and mils to show the differences when you come across either term. This will help clarify the measurement system and provides “safe zone” to guide you in your purchase. Below 20 mils and 17 mils the liners begin to get to thin and can easily puncture. You can certainly get a thick 25 mil liner but keep in mind that it will carry a higher price. Installing the thickest liners can be challenging without good weather conditions. This safe zone takes into account everyone involved at replacing a pool liner from the customer right down to the installer.
Most pool liners will have seams. It is important know about material that a pool liner is made from. It should have double lapped seams and made of single produced virgin material. You want virgin vinyl with uv protection and not repurposed materials such as a nylon based or just inferior remanufactured materials with only one lap seam holding them together.
OK, so we have arrived at installation. It is last in our guide but for you it may be what you downloaded this guide for. At the Above Ground Pool Builder we like to think anyone can do a liner replacement themselves. Yes it can be a little challenging but if you know about some secrets an installer uses it might be easier for you.
So you have the right liner and it’s the correct size and you love the pattern. Let’s get going:
- The first thing you want to do is empty the pool if it isn’t already. Whenever we go to a customer’s house for a liner change we often find that the pool still has a couple inches of water in it. This water has to be removed; a 24ft round pool with one inch of water is equivalent to 300-400 gallons. If you cut the liner and let water go onto the base material underneath, it will soften the sand or stone base which will turn to mud. Then you will have to wait another day for it to dry and you will need to resurface the whole bottom. Also, you may need to replace some base material if a lot is lost.
- The goal is to remove water left at the bottom without damaging the sand or stone base. To do this walk around the outside of the pool to find a spot where the lowest part of the pool is and dig a hole underneath the base track until you meet the inside base. Make a small trench away from the pool so that the water can flow away from it. Next, on the inside of the pool cut a small hole above the area you just dug on the outside. Then reach your hand inside and move sand base to either side exposing the hole. Then cut liner in a way that lets a piece of the liner hang outside underneath the bottom track. You’re making a funnel for the water to travel under the pool.If you are surrounded by earth on the outside then a shop vacuum will be needed to suck out all the water.Once drained go to the opposite side of the pool inside and start to cut the liner along the top and drag the liner towards the trench you made. Make sure not to let the water flow onto the floor, instead let it travel out the bottom of the pool through the trench you made. Keep walking the liner towards the trench until it’s all gone.Now stretch the liner back out and cut it into small pieces with a utility knife. Place the cut pieces into construction bags and remove all of the bags from the pool. Once your base is exposed two processes can start at the same time.
- Taking the pool apart is next.
Remove the top rails if the liner you’re installing is an overlap, J-Hook or V-beaded liner. If your pool is requiring a beaded liner and the pool has a bead track you can skip removing the top rails. Test to see if your fingers will fit under the top rail first. Chances are good you will have to remove the top rails.B. Under the top rails you will encounter top plates that attach to the top of each upright. Remove as many screws as necessary to allow the plate to release the coping rails.C. Now remove top coping rails including plastic coping strips. Be careful if it is a windy day. Because once you remove all these parts the wall is free standing. You will also be left with removing the last part of the liner. Use some duct tape to hold wall in case it is needed. Better safe than sorry.
- Next will involve reworking your pool base material.
Start by making sure the base is at least four inches high on the wall. Then it tapers to about 3 inches of sand base everywhere else, a little more is okay, but do not lower this amount of sand. Of course, if its stone dust then it’s the same. Take a metal rake and move back and forth smoothing as much as possible. Then use the back of a push broom and smooth the entire surface until the base is as smooth as you can get it.B. Now take a water hose and soak the base everywhere. You want to make sure it is soaked thoroughly, almost to the point of turning to mud.C. Next take a metal tamper and start at the outside near the wall and tamp all around the pool. Once you’re done with the first ring, tamp the same area again as this is the cove area and needs to be double tamped so it’s packed correctly.D. Finish the rest of the base with tampers.E. Use the broom to blend in all the tamp marks and make as smooth as you can get it.Steps A-E should be done with special care as not to disturb the surface you are creating. When it’s time to spread out liner you want to be bare footed. So you don’t affect the liner in anyway.
- *Sizing the liner
This is one of the more important parts of liner replacement. There is a seam that runs all along where the base meets the wall. Place this seam as close to the wall base as you can. Depending on specific pool, and perhaps the weather, this may be right on the mark or it could be three inches away from the wall. It is okay if it three inches away; just make sure it is even all around both round and on oval pools.
- *Tip-Vacuum Trick
Before any next step you want to place a wet vacuum with the hose to travel through the return opening from the outside in. Place the hose so it’s about one foot from the bottom. Then tape around the opening to prevent air from escaping. Do the same for the skimmer opening. It doesn’t matter if some air gets in. You want a little bit of air traveling into this area. Sometimes the suction can be too much and you need to take some tape off. So it doesn’t need to be taped perfectly.
- Liner attachment
Once the liner is properly sized it is time to hang it on the wall. If your liner is a regular bead and you didn’t have to take the pool top rails off start snapping the bead portion of the liner into the bead track along the top. Don’t force it in, just simply snap it in place and continue all around. Pay attention to the material as you go. You want to make sure the floor material of the liner comes with you. Make sure everything is straight as you go. Chances are if you did the first steps correctly then this will go perfectly. It is when you do not measure correctly or purchase wrong kind of liner for your pool that you run into problems.
If your pool liner is a J-Hook, V-beaded, uni-bead, ez-bead or multi-bead you simply hang the hooked portion of the bead over the pool wall all around. As you place the liner atop the wall, put the metal coping rails back on. If using an overlap liner, you place coping strips on before coping rails.
If you are converting from overlap to any of the beaded liners then discard the plastic coping strips. Once liner is on fully and everywhere is straight it’s time to place the top plates back on. Then you’re ready for vacuum and water.
- Turn on the vacuum and let it suck the air out behind the liner. This part will seem like magic, it makes wrinkles disappear. While the vacuum is working you want to gently go around the inside and make sure liner gets seated where it was sized.
- Place a water hose in the pool and turn it on. Let the water fill until the liner is seated permanently. It is a great idea to smooth any wrinkles you may see while water is at a lower level as trying to do this with more water will prove fruitless. Being a project at home you will wait until pool is half full before the skimmer and return can be cut in. Once the water reaches the pool wall and upwards couple inches all around you can shut off vacuum and remove the vacuum hose from the return. Be careful not to pull to hard. Keep filling the pool with water until the pool is about a third to half full of water.
- Put all of the top rails and components back in place.
- Now you’re ready to install the skimmer and return. When installing a skimmer you will place a small stool or ladder outside so you can get to the inside. The liner is being held down by thousands of gallons of water so there is no need to worry about liner not being stretched enough. Start in middle bottom by placing a skimmer screw through the skimmer faceplate and then through the liner and pre-cut holes on the pool wall. Easily found around the skimmer cut out. You can use a cordless drill and a #3 Philips bit. Do not tighten more than 80% tight with cordless drill though as it’s so easy to break a skimmer plate. Then finish by tightening the screws with a hand held screw driver.
- The return is installed by pushing the assembly from the inside out and cutting the liner from the outside. Push assembly through the opening and tighten return nut on outside using large channel lock pliers. Not too tight because it is PVC material and will break. Just enough to seat the rubber gaskets. Hook up your filter hoses and finish filling pool with water. It’s at this time you can test water and get game plan for chemistry going.
Bonus Tips *Liner Care:
Maintaining proper water balance is the most important thing one can do to prevent premature liner replacement. You extend the life of your liner by 50% more when following the guidelines below. Maintain proper water balance
- pH in the 7.2 to 7.6 range
- Total alkalinity at 80 to 100 ppm
- Calcium hardness: 200 ppm minimum
- Maintain the free chlorine residual between 1.4 and 2.6 ppm. nIf free chlorine drifts below 1.4 ppm, algae and bacterial growth can start and cause liner to be stained. Having a low pH of less than 7.0 should be avoided completely, this can cause a liner to form wrinkles, creators and with a greater probability when the pool’s water is not stabilized for extended periods.
- For this reason it is recommended that all vinyl lined swimming pools be periodically stabilized so that a minimum of 50 ppm be maintained.
- Chemicals should never be mixed together and then added to pool water at the same time.
- Because certain combinations of the different chemicals can cause bleaching of your liner and if the concentration is allowed to remain high this can destroy a liner in less than a couple months.
- Always allow your chemicals to disperse throughout the pool by means of water recirculation, before adding a second chemical. We like to mention that it is always a great idea to add chemicals into the skimmer so that they are transported through the pump and filter system first. This action will help with filtering high contrasts of chemicals and reduce the effects of any direct contact with liner.
- Never drain your pool and leave empty for any reason other than to immediately replace the water or liner. Once a liner is exposed to sunlight, ether it will start to shrink. Over time a liner stretches into position and then gets firm. It will lose its stretch after being installed just by sitting in the sunlight. If allowed to shrink then when adding water to pool will collapse pool structure.
- Avoid the use of abrasive cleaning agents or cleaning aids (such as steel wool, sharp bristled brushes, scouring pads, etc.)
- Use only manufacturer’s recommended vinyl liner cleaner for removing accumulated soil at water line or other soiled areas.
- Do not close your pool without circulating the pool water for several hours after your final addition of chemicals. Any chemical not fully circulated can accumulate and hurt liner.
Floor padding can add a layer of protection between your liner and the base material and stop rocks and roots from penetrating your new liner. It’s one piece construction with no cutting, taping, or measuring – just take out of the box and lay over the base. Other materials force you to use tape to place together many pieces. Having the one piece makes for easy installation.
You may want to replace or add wall foam. Wall foam can help maintain pool water temperature. It will also help retain some heat better than the metal wall itself. If your older pool wall is made of aluminum then chances are you may have small tiny holes in the wall. This is perfectly normal and placing wall foam is a great idea.
Pool Cleaners, Pool Lights and Alarms
Some other accessories to consider might be automatic pool cleaner, pool lights and or an alarm. It’s always best to get everything done at the same time as the liner because it’s just easier since half the pool is taken apart.
If you have questions at any point please visit www.abovegroundpoolbuilder.com and/or visit us on our YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6AFPIXFIHYZItD0fmgDN9Q. Both places contain huge amounts of information pertaining to A.G. Pools and Liners. If telephone is more your style, our number is (781) 927-9110 or emails us at email@example.com.
We can also set up a Skype conversation for those comfortable in doing so.
David Mispilkin, Owner